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HALLOWED SHRINES

In a city full of places of all faiths, some are more hallowed than others. Of these, some date to the Madras Age that began in 1639, others go back centuries to Pallava times. In ancient Mylapore, known to Ptolemy as the great port of Maillarpha, is the famed Kapaleeswarar Temple. The present temple, built on the site of the ancient shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, is at least 300 years old and has one of the most striking gopurams (towers) in South India. Not far away is the Vaishnava Parthasarathy Temp le a splendid Pallava creation of the 8th century. In George Town are the earliest temples of the Madras Era - the twin Chenna Kesava - Chenna Mallikeswarar Temples are the first temples of the modern city, and not much newer are the Kandaswamy Temple, the Kapaleeswarar Temple and the Ekambareswarar Temple nearby. More modern Hindu shrines include the Vadapalani Andavar


	Kapaleeswarar Temple at Mylapore

Hindu shrines include the Vadapalani Andavar Temple and the temples of Mambalam.

Older than the temples of George Town is the Roman Catholic Portuguese Church nearby, perhaps the first church in British India. Other churches of George Town with a 300-year-old history but with reconstructed building are Armenian Church and St. Mary's Co-Cathedral. Luz Church in Mylapore, however, has a history going back to the first Protuguese settlement in San Thome. Once the British were established in Madras, they built some fine churches with towering steeples, like St. George's Cathedral and St. Andrew's Kirk, both with several fine monuments. The Big Mosque, associated with the Wallajah Nawabs, is the finest mosque in Madras, but the new Thousand Lights Mosque brings modern architectural splendour to mosque-building. Mint Street has several old jain temples, but in GNC Road there is the new Shantinath Temple that is strikingly beautiful.

GOVERNMENT ESTATE

It's heart is erstwhile Government House, used as the governor's mansion from the time the British governors moved out of the Fort till their Indian successors moved into the smaller country mansion in Guindy in the post-Independence age. With the move, t his splendid mansion in the heart of the city has become a legislators' hostel. Rajaji Hall is the stately Banqueting Hall that the second Lord Clive built as an adjunct to Government House. Gandhi Illam, a little corner of these vast grounds, is a small museum commemorating the Father of the Nation.

THE MARINA

Stretching two miles, from the mouth of the Cooum River south of the Fort, till the northern boundaries of the 16th centurey Portuguese town of San Thome, is this magnificent beach drive and promenade. To the east of the road is the promenade, well-kept gardens and a wide beach with claims to being the world's second largest. At the north end of the beach is Anna Square, the serene resting place of Dr C N Annadurai, who founded a populist party that ushered in anew the ancient glory of Tamil and the Tamils. His Samadhi is marked by a beautiful park, a striking memorial sculpture and daily crowds paying homage. At the other end of the beach is the new lighthouse.


	Marina Beach

In between, sentinels on the promenade, are several statues of Tamil scholars and two splendid bits of sculpture - the Victory of Labour and Mahatma Gandhi. Madras's Aquarium is also on this beach. Across the road are several important buildings of Madras. The University campus has Indo-Saracenic of the 1930s blending with perhaps one of the country's finest buildings in this hybrid style, Senate House, built by one of the founders of the modern version of this school of architecture. R F Chisholm, in mid-19th century. Chrisholm's PWD buildings front striking Chepauk Palace, once the home of the Nawabs of the Carnatic, but now government offices whose exteriors still reflect Nawabi splendour. Presidency College, another Chisholm masterpiece, was the nucleus of the 125-year-old University of Madras. Vivekananda House, now a hostel, was once a storehouse for imported ice, then home of Swami Vivekananda when he visited Madras. The long and impressive Office of the Director-general of Police, another 19th century construction, was built as the City's first Masonic hall.

OTHER BUILDINGS

In addition to the several buildings mentioned earlier, Madras has several fine example of British-Indian architecture of the 18th and 19th centuries. These include Amir Mahal, where the descendants of the Nawabs of Carnatic live, Moubray's House where the Madras Club functions and its first building now in Express Estate, the GPO and adjacent State Bank buildings, Doveton House that is part of the Women's Christian College campus, the Madras Literaty Society's building and several stately old homes.

Tour Chennai (madras)

Mamallapuram (58 km)

Also known as Mahabalipuram, this ancient sea port was built by Emperor Mahendravarman Pallava in the 7th century. From here ships left for countries in south-east Asia and the Mediterranian carrying not only traders but people who emigrated to countries like Indonesia, Thailand and Combodia. Over the passage of time Mamallapuram ceased to function as a port but its glory lived on in its finished and unfinished temples and monuments. Time and natural forces have wrought changes onthe solid rock ms, Pancha Rathas, Shore Temple and Varaha Mandapa.


	Mahabalipuram

surface of these monuments but each sculpture and image still succeeds in conveying a message of beauty and harmony. Mamallapuram bears testimony and pays tribute to its Pallava artists and to the culture of South India. Among the places of interest are Arjuna's Penance, Krishna Mandapa, Mahishasuramardini Cave, Mandapa

Pulicat (54 km)

This is the site of an old Dutch settlement dating back to 1609. Today, Pulicat is a picnic spot famed for its lake. There are amenities of sort for swimming, fishing, and windsurfing. History-buffs can wander around the ancient Dutch cemetery with its well-preserved tombstones.

Cholamandalam Artists' Village (28 km)

Contemporary art, sculpture, batik and craft flourish in this little palm-studded sea-rimmed artists' commune that was started in 1966. Artists and sculptors live and work here and also exhibit and sell their work. Its open air auditorium is also the venue of avant garde theatre, poetry-reading and dance recitals.

Kovalam (43 km)

A picturesque fishing village en route to Mamallapuram. It has an idyllic, golden beach and a charming luxury hotel beach resort that's been ingeniously integrated with the remains of a fort. The resort offers delicious sea food and facilities' for such watersport as swimming and windsurfing. The ruins of the old fort, an ancient Catholic church and a mosque make interesting viewing.

V.G.P. Golden Beach Resort (30 km)

This is a cleverly planned beach resort geared to entertain the visitor with sculptured vignettes from the past, folk dances and ethnic sea food cuisine. Its unique stretch of spotlessly clean golden sand is a warm invitation to sun-bathers and the surf beckons the seabather. The V.G.P. Art Centre, a part of the resort complex, sells merchandise ranging, from sea shells to rural handicrafts. Pretty tacky and tastelessly done!

MGM Dizee World (20 km)

An amusement park complete with Roller Coasters and Water Slides and Giant Catherine Wheels - fun place for kids.

Dakshina Chitra (immediately next to Dizee World)

A reasonably new place presented by the Madras Crafts Foundation as a show piece of different living styles in the South. Contains recreations of Brahmin, Chettinad, a potters, a basket weaver's, a silk weaver's houses along with live representations of their craft. Similarly the Kerala section has a Syrian Christian house, a Menon house etc. Very authentic since the dwellings were actually bought from their places of origin and replanted here. There is an accompanying audio-visual presentation and a little gift shop. Very well done and definitely worth a visit.

Crocodile Bank (31 km)

Several species of Indian and African crocodiles and alligators bred in captivity are kept here in open pools. Visitors can view the reptiles from close but safe proximity. There is also a small snake farm here that conducts demonstrations of venom extraction.

Kancheepuram (75 km)

This spectacular temple city is one of the seven sacred cities of India. It was, successively, capital of the kingdoms of the Pallavas, Cholas and rajas of Vijayanagar. The temples and gopurams they left behind are exquisite reminders of the beauty of Dravidian architecture, from the freshness and simplicity of the Pallavas' 7th-century Kailasanatha Temple through to the Vijayanagar Empire's 16th-century Ekambareshwara Temple. The latter covers nine hectares, has a 59-metre-high gopuram, a 1000-pillared hall and a sacred mango tree said to be 3500 years old. Kanchipuram is also famous for its hand-woven silk fabrics. The best way to see the temples is to hire a bicycle or a cycle-rickshaw driver for the day and have plenty of baksheesh ready for the temple guides, shoe-minders and riff-raff who will relish your arrival.